Download free educational books about furniture making, cabinet making, furniture design, upholstery, etc. - Collection of public domain books. CABINETWORK. Editorial Reviews. About the Author. Michael Crow is the author of Building Classic Arts and download Mid-Century Modern Furniture: Shop Drawings & Techniques for Making 29 Projects: Read 33 Books Reviews - download a Kindle Kindle eBooks Kindle Unlimited Prime Reading Best Sellers & More Kindle Book. Editorial Reviews. From Booklist. The second installment in this planned three- volume guide download a Kindle Kindle eBooks Kindle Unlimited Prime Reading Best Sellers & More Kindle . A former senior editor of American Woodworker magazine, Rae currently works in Asheville,North Carolina, making furniture as well as.

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Confira também os eBooks mais vendidos, lançamentos e livros digitais Mid- Century Modern Furniture: Shop Drawings & Techniques for Making 29 Projects ( . Mission Furniture: How to Make It, Part 1 by H. H. Windsor. No cover available. Download; Bibrec Download This eBook. Ebook `The carpenters, joiners, cabinet makers, and gilders' companion: containing rules and instructions in the art of carpentry, joining, cabinet making, and.

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Be very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already fastened to the top and bottom boards. The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done. Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to dry.

The drawers are made as shown in the [Pg 9] sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware store. The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner.

Scrape all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

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Apply this to the wood, and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a good stain.

A solution of 2 oz. Potash solution darkens the wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber.

If the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard lengths, he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with no more work for himself. Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing. Lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails. These mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later with lag screws as is the clock shown.

Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes will miss each other.

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The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places. This is true, also, of the mullions of the front doors. Square up the shelves so that they may be set into grooves in the adjacent rails.

The middle shelf is to have an overhang and will rest upon the rails. The mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width, and it is not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts.

The wood panel back of them gives ample strength. It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are placed, and which becomes the face of the clock. It is better to fit this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front. Put the whole frame together, using good hot glue for the joints.

When the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit the doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look well and are the easiest to apply.

Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts preparatory to applying the finish. To finish, apply one coat of mission oak water stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. Apply a second coat, diluted with an equal amount of water. Sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat of shellac to keep the filler color, which follows, from discoloring the high lights.

When the shellac has had time to harden, sand [Pg 14] lightly and put on a coat of paste filler. Use light filler, colored with umber and Venetian red in the proportion of 12 oz, of umber, and 4 oz. The directions for applying the filler will be found on the can labels.

On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac lightly and put on several coats of some good floor wax, polishing well according to the directions on the can. This is what is known as a mission oak finish and is quite popular for this type of furniture design. The metal figures for the dial come with the clock movement. Some of the movements come already set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do is to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing boxes and fasten them to the frame with screws from the back.

This is mere drudgery and can be more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery. There will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts.

Order the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below. Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate.

Some people like quartered white oak better, however. The cost is about the same. The front posts should have one end of each squared, after which [Pg 17] they can be cut to the exact length.

The rear posts, according to the stock bill, are specified for the exact thickness.

By exercising forethought, both may be got from the piece ordered. The tops and bottoms of the posts should have their edges slightly chamfered to prevent their slivering. The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary, but the drawing indicates quite clearly how it is cut. The arm is fastened to the posts by means of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair have been put together.

Now prepare the curved parts of the back. These parts are worked to size, after which they are thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms described on another page. These forms should have a surface curve whose radius is 22 in. While the parts are drying out, go ahead with the cutting of the mortises and tenons of post and rail. Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back by 2 in.

This will necessitate the use of the bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons. Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried, put the side rails in place, then the arms. The chair should now be scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish. The cushion shown in the picture is made of Spanish roan skin leather and is filled with elastic felt.

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Such cushions can be downloadd at the upholsterer's [Pg 18] or they can be made by the craftsman himself.

Frequently the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather thongs. With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives the thicknesses and widths exact. To the length, however, enough has been added to allow squaring up the ends. Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this. Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall not splinter through usage.

Next lay out the mortises and tenons. The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed as described on another page. The curved form to which the steamed piece is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to straighten a little.

The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the forms. The rails of the [Pg 19] front and back may be tenoned, too. It should be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying out the shoulders of the tenons.

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