RAY MEARS OUTDOOR SURVIVAL HANDBOOK PDF

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Ray Mears Outdoor Survival Handbook - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File . txt) or read online. Ray-Mears-Outdoor-Survival-Handbook. Posejdon Posejdon Loading Preview. Sorry, preview is currently unavailable. You can download the . UK survival writer, Ray Mears has produced here one of the nicest survival books to read in the past few years. Lost of pictures, poetry, respect.


Ray Mears Outdoor Survival Handbook Pdf

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A Guide To The Resources and Materials Available in the Wild and How To Use Them For Food, Shelter, Warmth and Navigation. The Outdoor. Ten Secrets of Wilderness Survival - Ricardo kaz-news.info kaz-news.info XK8JgwST0VTpZ. The Effects of Ray Mears - Outdoor Survival Book. Suvival-skills expert Raymond Mears delivers dependable, thorough, and easy- to-understand advice on every aspet of outdoor survival, season by season.

What's always frustrated him is not knowing how our own ancestors fed themselves - and what we could learn about our own diet. How did they find their calories, week-in week-out throughout the year?

What were their staple foods? Where did they get their vitamins? How did they ensure their bodies received enough variety? In this book and the BBC TV series it inspired, Ray travels back ten thousand years to a time before farming to learn how our ancestors found, prepared and cooked their food. This extraordinary journey reveals many new possibilities - many of the same food sources are still there for us if only we know where to look.

Through Ray Mears' knowledge of the countryside and the research conducted specially for this book with archaeo-botanist Gordon Hillman, we learn many new, useful and often surprising things about the amazingly rich natural larder that still surrounds us.

Ray Mears Goes Walkabout Hodder, Join Ray Mears as he goes walkabout through the wilderness of the Australian Outback and learns about the people, the wildlife and the culture of this extraordinary land. He is joined by Australian survival experts who enrich his journey and deepen his understanding of the bushcraft of this incredible continent.

These journeys encompass many of Ray's enduring interests - discovery, the natural world, indigenous culture, adventure and survival. Above all, they represent something very close to Ray's heart - the most important thing we can learn when travelling is to be open to new ideas, new ways of doing things and new experiences.

During his expeditions into the heart of the bush, Ray encounters a variety of natural habitats with rich indigenous cultures, and uncovers fascinating tales of exploration and survival. Experience the spectacular Australian wilderness through Ray's unique vision and enjoy his trademark survival knowledge and wilderness tips.

Vanishing World Hodder, Ray Mears has travelled the world for much of his life learning and teaching wilderness skills. Now he reflects on his experiences in some of the most remote and beautiful places on Earth along with his own stunning photographs of the landscapes and peoples he's encountered. Fascinated by photography from an early age, each of Ray's pictures captures an instant of life, whether the subject is a human being, a landscape or a wild animal.

This book reveals our dramatically changing planet and inspires us to look more closely at the changes around us.

World of Survival

See our vanishing world through the eyes, ears and camera lens of Ray Mears. Northern Wilderness Hodder, A stunning celebration of one of earth's great wildernesses. Ray Mears journeys through mountains, forests, tundra and ice in a land where roads are still scarce. On foot he explores the vast Boreal Forest and its rich animal life from beavers to bears. Travelling across the Hudson Bay by canoe, Ray tells the story of the fur trappers who traded with the hat manufacturers of England.

He follows the paths of the great early northern explorers, Samuel Hearne and David Thompson, who trekked across the tundra and the Rocky Mountains and survived by learning what we now call bushcraft from the native people. On snowshoes he explores the frozen north and learns the ways of the Inuit, who show him how they make birch-bark canoes and build shelter.

This book is rich in bushcraft, as Ray reveals the unique techniques of the Native Canadians and the Inuit, and discovers how they used essential skills to survive in a landscape that is as beautiful as it is awesome. This caused the sparks. Sparks can be produced from lighters which have run out of fuel. Quite a palaver if you had to rise quickly in the night. Place the magnesium on a pile of tinder that will take light when ignited.

The leaves act as both tinder and a basket to prevent the magnesium blowing away. In civilised circumstances the tinder box contained all that was necessary: The best spark-producer of all these is the modern synthetic flint bar.

The magnesium block can be scraped to produce a small pile of shavings that will easily ignite from the sparks. So good is this shower of sparks that even the woody remains of umbellifer flowers can be drawn together and ignited.

Held in this way. The tinder was held on tOp of the flint. Strike only the back of your knife. Don't discard an old lighter whose fuel is used up. Sandwich the magnesium between two such leaves and set it alight by showering the sparks to fall through the leaf ribs.

Until their introduction in the late seventeenth century.

Ray Mears Outdoor Survival Handbook - Signed Copy

The process was to strike the steel with the flint. Scrape this bar with the back of your knife with a sort of wrist-flick to produce a bright shower of sparks which will ingite a wide range of tinders or even light trail stoves. The sparks will fall downwards on to the tinder.

Then a sulphur match. Knife strike-a-light To strike sparks from a knife. On the trail. The use of sparks to light fires is today still a valid technique. Knee positioned so as not to impede the free swing of your drilling ann Bearing hand held firmly braced against the left shin. Carve wedge-shaped notch to centre of depression. Friction fire-lighting does. This wood must be in the correct condition. Avoid squeaking due to insufficient pressure or dampness. Cord tension is adjusted by twisting.

The candescent 'coal' of friction dust forms in notch in the hearth. String must be strong to resist abrasion.

Once the equipment has been made it takes only a few seconds to produce fire. With notch full of powder and smoke sustaining itself. Drill and hearth. If tnng slips. Collect dust in strong leaf or slab of bark beneath notch. Many species can be used. People are more often too gentle than toO harsh. As smoke rises. Fan smoking heap of dust with your hand until it darkens and glows red. Carve from hard or green wood to minimise friction. Drill smoothly. Smoke should increase In volume.

This undervalued method is useful. With your breath. Use nylon cord at first. Stop drilling and roll hearth away while genrly holding powder with tiny stick or pine needle. Mastery of this technique builds confidence and a sense of freedom. To ensure that no underground roots are left smouldering unnoticed. If you are camping in the same place for a.

The classic star fire is the ceremonial fire of the Cherokee. If you have already allowed the fire to die down.

This fi re is built with logs at least as thick as you r thigh and often up to 7 m 20 ft or more in length. This helps the embers to retain their heat for long periods. Criss-cross fire. Good fire control should become second nature with practice. The shape acts like a chimney. It also makes a stable 'council' fire. Make it obvious that you have done your clearing up carefully. Take only memories. When you leave your campsite you have two overriding responsibilities: Arranged in this way the fuel burns quickly along its whole length.

The difference between the two is the size of fuel. Tepee fire. Once the dead embers and ashes are cool. Looked after properly. If your fire goes cold midway through cooking or persistently smoulders. Star fire. Indian's fire. Putting Out the fire is not difficult. Putting out your fire and leaving no trace No sight so affronts the eyes outdoors than an old fire site filled with rusting cans and broken glass. On the trail this is best achieved with the Indian's fire.

The tepee does. If you have been using a ready-made stone fireplace. Take all your rubbish away in your rucksack.

Brush over the site with a branch and camouflage it to show as little sign of occupation as possible. It can be constructed before ignition or more usually is simply the method by which fuel is arranged prior to cooking. The first step IS to spread the embers to allow them to cool. This lay is an of maintaining a fire in a permanent camp.

Fuelwood is gradually fed into the centre. This is because the fibres shrink more when dried from green than when dried from a resoaked state.

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With all cordage materials the gathering and preparation of the fibres take longer than the actual manufacture. The sucker can be cut away.

Thus found. Lime bark is best used dry but can be used wet. The tree is so called beca use of its reputation for providing valued cordage. This is so much the case that the experienced become expert at avoiding the use of string or rope wherever possible. In each case it is the inner bark. Fibres for making natural cordage fall into two categories by their usage: To list all of the available bark fibres would fill volumes.

The traditional method was to cut away a hand-wide strip from near the base of the tree and then. Spring provides the ideal circumstances to gather inner bark fibres.

But sooner or later the inevitable has to be faced and cordage needs to be made. Willow bark is mostly used wet but can be used dry. Once you start. I Lime bark The name 'lime' is a corruption of the Old English 'linden' or 'line' meaning 'rope'. Lime bark is easily gathered. For everything but the most quickly made cordage it is best Gathered and to think of the three stages of gathering. With careful manufacture and weaving.

A tree found for this purpose will often provide wands for many years if carefully managed. The flowing sap helps to loosen the bark from the wood. You are searching for healthy looking wands about cm 4 ft long.

This should be easy if your bark is in rhe correct condition. Now bold this and lift the wand away from its bark. Always make sure you have prepared enough before you begin manufacture. To do this. The bark can now be rolled and stored until needed.

But the fine cordage you can make from prepared fibres is better: Try to maintain as straight a cut as possible. The scrapings can be saved for making a dye see p. Now pull the bark past the blade. Gently work your way along the full length of the wand with your thumbs.

Willow bark Using the back of YOur knife. To avoid getting into a tangle. Lime bark You can peel away the rigid outer lime bark for immediate use when gathered.

Now you can strip the inner bark from the crusty outer with ease. Rinse it out and hang to dry. Split the bark down if necessary. With enough soaking the fibres should remain reasonably soft when dry. Lime bark consists of many tissue-thin layers. Double sheep bend. Now you will need to join in a new fibre. With practice your co-ordination will improve and your speed increase.

The solution is to gather it up on to a freehanging spool. Keep repeating the process until you are within 5 cm 2 in of the shortest end. It is easy to do and relatively quick when mastered. Keep going. The aim is to round the fibre.

To produce cordage with that extra strand. With control this can be per uaded to twist up in a very neat fa hion. With three strands it is a little more difficult and consequently slower to roll on your thigh. Just lay the end of a new fibre alongside the short end and twist it in. Knots for natural cordage Bowline. If you fold it in the middle.

You can produce laid cordage as strong as you need it. Cordage twisted originally to the right Z-Iaid must be twisted to the left when doubled S-Iaid. Holding the fold in one hand. It helps to taper the fibres where they join so as to mamtain an even twist.

Two crossed sticks will su ffice. Additional techniques Joining in Joining in is not difficult. To double up existing cordage. Take a good long initial fibre and twist it until it wants to kink. Resume drilling. Suitable woods for drill and hearth The wood for a hand drill set must be perfectly dry. If shaft splits slightly. A solution frequently used by native peoples was to lash a short piece of suitable wood to a long. The hearth should be about 30 em 1 ft long. Hold your Cut the non-drilling end of the bit overall length ern.

Once the coal is formed. It does. With the notch a piece of bark to collect the dust. Bind the end of a straight green piece of elder of the same diameter.

Ray Mears - Outdoor Survival Book.pdf

Push drill bit into pithy centre of shaft. Hearths can be formed from any of the bow drill woods but clematis is also especially good. The following make excellent drills: The principle is the same as for the bow drill see p. The advantage of this method is ease of portability and the fact that it does not require cordage..

When they reach the bottom. Watch the friction dust. It was usual for native people to gather and season their fire sets deliberately.

Smooth the wood for blister-free drilling. It is probably the most primitive of all fishing methods: Fishing remains one of the few ancient pastimes still carried out both for food and for sport. Town and city dwellers are distanced from their local rivers. Many although not all of the techniques employed by our ancestors are outlawed. They require infinite patience.

An easier way is to chase the fish into a: Many of our rivers and other waterways are now too polluted by industrial effluents to support the number and variety of fish that once made their homes there.

In position. They had their eyes to watch:. Tickling fish Tickling is still carried out on the Falkland Islands as a principal method for catching fish.

Simple thorns were senses of direction we can only marvel at. Today some have to swim home via the polluted effluence that was once a noble river.

Our ancestors waited expectantly for these silver From late summer. Only poachers dare to use them. Gently reach through e water with your hands so as to be able tgrasp the fish with a lightning action t prevents its wriggling away.

But nothing can beat the taste of a 'dead fresh' herring. We no longer celebrate the return of the salmon now that our rivers flow with waste being flushed away. Yet every year these masters of the wet world are driven to meet their destiny.

Over the last century. Improvised hooks. Fine cordage fibres: Rigs Bramble hooks work best with static line rigs such as these. Below are just a few varieties which can be used.: You don't present.

Hooks and line are today sophisticated materials maximising strength for size. I 6 Lash the three thorns to the feather stem. Iii Bind thorns in place securely. After gutting. Ribs should come out cleanly with the spine. I t' Two pencil-thick sticks one handspan in length. Assuming you have caught a trout. After allowing the nerve endings to die. Use plenty of force for a swift.

Prop at an angle above an ember fire to cook until golden. Slit the fish from the anal opening to just behind the gills and haul out all the internal organs. A neat. The classic cold -weather shelter is the open-fronted lean-to.

Construct end walls to close off drafts on three sides. Open down one side. Framework must be strong. The sloping roof is easy and quick to construct but must overhang you far enough to prevent rain or snow landing on your bed! To make the best use of this shelter. Two forked. This is easily provided by modern camping equipment.

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Our main considerations are to raise ourselves above the heat-sapping ground. Extra central lashing is advisable. Boughs are pushed into ground. Withe bed Frame with willow withe passed across it and lashed securely in place. Types of bed Making a simple bed Lay crosswise moisture barrier of dead logs about 5 ern 2 in in diameter.

Many experienced campers are astounded by the comfort of their first night on an improvised bed. It is important to have sufficient bedding material: You can build a good bed with one hour's work. This gives you the best advantage of the warmth of the fire. It is. To help reduce the amount of bedding material needed. Weigh that hour against all the hours of sleep it will give you. With the open-fronted lean-to. Improvised hammock-bke from climbing rope or grass rope. Cover mattress with lighter.

That may not seem much now. Best contained by a frame. But I have found the best way is the simple hand method shown here. There are several ways to make a duvet you can even build a makeshift loom.These journeys encompass many of Ray's enduring interests - discovery, the natural world, indigenous culture, adventure and survival.

World of Survival Collins, In this incredible book, Ray Mears reveals how native people survive in the harshest environments on earth, from the Arctic and Siberia, where temperatures reach minus 50 degrees centigrade, to the Kalahari Desert, tropical jungle and the Australian Outback.

To do this. Cover mattress with lighter. Once the dead embers and ashes are cool. How did they find their calories, week-in week-out throughout the year? If you already have the later Ray Mears Essential Bushcraft you probably don't need both.